There’s a trend these days—not cupcakes, macarons, or high-pedigree burgers—of restaurateurs embracing the bistro concept: no white tablecloths, no fancy French sauces, and no price inflation. Damian and Stephanie Salvatore, who own the upscale Persimmon in Bethesda, went one step further with Wild Tomato, their new place in Cabin John. Their aim is to be hyper-local, not with their sourcing but with the ethos of the restaurant, which includes a local artist’s paintings (blown-up pictures of artichokes and, well, tomatoes) and a chalkboard that, right now, applauds the Rockville High School Rams for being the football state champs. The neighborhood-joint feel is echoed in Buffalo wings (a little greasy and short on sauce), a wedge salad (a good mash of buttermilk dressing, bacon, and blue cheese), and pizza (great crust, fresh vegetables). Is it any surprise that there’s a cupcake on the dessert menu?