100 Very Best Restaurants 2013: Nostos

Nostos in Vienna is a good place to explore Greek wines—its list is extensive. Photograph by Scott Suchman.
Nostos in Vienna is a good place to explore Greek wines—its list is extensive. Photograph by Scott Suchman.

An unlikely beauty in a drab office building, Nostos (Greek for
“homecoming”) is at once lively and serene, with a gray-on-white color
scheme that conjures an Old World fishing village. Weekday lunches attract
iPhone-tapping suits along with neighborhood retirees who ask for servers
by name. At dinner, a starry romance takes over.

Rustic Mediterranean entrées and mezedes (shared small
plates) showcase superior ingredients but don’t overshoot with complicated
flavors or newfangled preparations. Still, we haven’t tasted anything here
that feels complacent.

This is a great place to bone up on inexpensive but tasty Greek
wines. Servers are adept at helping you choose. Don’t
miss:
Taverna salad with tomatoes, cucumbers, feta, and kalamata
olives; tzatziki; grilled haloumi cheese; fried cod
bites; avgolemono soup; cold appetizer platter; moussaka;
branzino with olive oil and lemon; baklava. Open: Monday
through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner.
Moderate.

100 Very Best Restaurants 2013

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