100 Very Best Restaurants 2014: Komi
No. 3 on this year's list
Reviewed By Todd Kliman, Ann Limpert, Jessica Voelker, Anna Spiegel
Photograph by Scott Suchman.
Comments () | Published January 27, 2014
100 Best Restaurants 2014 100 Best Restaurants 2013 100 Best Restaurants (2011) 100 Best Restaurants 2012 100 Best Restaurants (2010)

Address: 1509 17th St. NW, Washington, DC 20009
Phone: 202-332-9200
Neighborhood: Dupont Circle, Downtown
Cuisines: Modern, Greek/Mediterranean, American
Opening Hours: Tuesday through Saturday for dinner.
Nearby Metro Stops: Dupont Circle
Price Range: Very expensive
Noise Level: Intimate
Reservations: Required
Best Dishes Mascarpone-stuffed dates; scallop with truffle emulsion and black truffles; spaghetti with sea urchin; roast suckling pig; baby goat; lamb neck
Price Details: Dinner menu, $135 per person.

Some say this is the restaurant that taught Washingtonians to appreciate goat—the pièce de résistance toward which the long journey of a tasting menu here moves. We say this is the restaurant that has taught Washingtonians that a meal is a chance to stash the phone and slow down. A night at this rowhouse is a leisurely affair, moving from a series of small plates that consumes a good hour and all but encourages conversation. Those two- and three-biters can edge into the overly cerebral, and lately some feel like unfinished drafts, but at their best—such as a mascarpone-stuffed date—they’re brilliant distillations of the entire meal: playful, intense, ingenious.

That roasted goat is still the lusty anchor of the final, hands-on course (you fold hunks of meat, crisp skin, and tzatziki into pancake-thick pita), but it’s been joined by other possibilities, including a marvelous veal chop with za’atar-dusted artichokes. House-made lollipops, a parting gift, are as good a reminder as any to step off the grid and savor a sweet pleasure. Open: Tuesday through Saturday for dinner. Don’t miss: Recent standouts on the set 12-course menu have included a selection of crudo; lamb ravioli with almonds; and foie gras torchon.

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