Tasting menus often feel like cocktail parties—entertaining but ultimately filled with unmemorable tidbits (and a craving for pasta after). Komi is the antithesis, down to chef Johnny Monis’s house-made noodles that arrive after a series of ethereal Mediterranean snacks. Few chefs can maintain this caliber of prix fixe for more than a decade, quietly surpassing the growing competition. A visit to the tranquil rowhouse almost always involves a 12-course meal at Monis’s hands, though table visits are rare. Instead, servers are kitchen ambassadors, introducing dishes with such earnest enthusiasm that it seems they’ve been to the Greek island of Chios, birthplace of both the lavraki crudo and Monis’s grandparents. Savories culminate in a deeply satisfying portion of whole fish or roasted meats such as suckling pig or dry-aged lamb neck, rounded out with warm pita, tzatziki, and relishes for slathering. More wine? Sommeliers Kyle Wilson and Meghan McNamara tag-team with surprises—Greek sparkling wine, sherry, cider—for an engaging pairing. Of all the restaurants that claim to offer the professional equivalent of a dinner party, Komi is the consummate host. Very expensive.
Also great: Taramasalata tartlet; pasta with rabbit; foie gras with blueberries; sweet-corn gelato.