Just inside is a small counter with hanging delicacies, such as roasted ducks and pig heads, leading into a large dining hall softened by cool greens and pastels and bordered in back by tanks of fresh seafood. And that’s all you need to know when ordering—duck, pig, and seafood are the kitchen’s strengths, and the less adorned the better.

Peking duck is a must, the succulent meat served alongside the crispy skin. You won’t find better roast suckling pig in town; available whole if you call in advance, it easily can feed a dozen or more people.

Seafood is best in a simple sauce of soy, ginger, and scallions. Vegetables include sautéed chive blossom, water spinach, baby bok choy, and intensely flavored Chinese celery.

Mark’s Duck House advertises itself as Hong Kong–style but tends to use a heavy hand with thick, salty sauces. It pays to stay simple, focusing on the fine roasted meats and fresh seafood, all prepared as simply as possible.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.