The only places to sit downstairs are the five red stools by the busy kitchen—and they’re often filled by regulars. Upstairs are a couple of tables. Most of the business at this soul-food gem on U Street is takeout—Wizards star Gilbert Arenas has been known to park his Range Rover by the curb—and even eat-in orders come in Styrofoam containers.

No shame in that, except that this is slow-cooked food worthy of a proper sit-down. All dinners come with a meat—expertly fried chicken, a spicy Cajun turkey “chop,” and wings sauced with a tangy-sweet house-made barbecue sauce are irresistible—and two sides; don’t miss the sweet-potato mash, porkless collard greens splashed with vinegar, or the gooey mac-and-cheese.

There are misses, notably the fatty ribs, and the kitchen is occasionally out of a dish—order fried chicken and you might get fried chicken wings. But you never get less than generosity. This is one place that serves up atmosphere and deliciousness in equal amounts.

Open Tuesday through Saturday for lunch and dinner.