Cuisine: Market-driven, seasonal American with a modern and healthy bent. Executive chef Ethan McKee—with an assist from consultant Ris Lacoste, formerly of 1789 Restaurant—has created a menu of entrées that come in at around 500 calories. There’s virtually no butter, cream, or sugar—but you hardly notice.

Mood: With a big faux-oak canopying the dining room and sunlight streaming through the windows, this third-floor dining room takes on a Southern California vibe by day. At night, the lights of Wisconsin Avenue wink below.

Best for: Diners who want to feel virtuous but not deprived as well as anyone in need of a bite before or after a movie at Mazza Gallerie.

Best dishes: Butternut-squash soup; Yukon Gold–potato gnocchi with ratatouille; roasted Amish bone-in chicken breast with quince and hazelnut-mustard sauce; pan-seared black sea bass with fennel and preserved lemon; turkey burger with smoked ham, shaved onion, and cranberry mustard.

Insider tips: In this supersize age, portions may seem small. That’s part of the point, but you can always order an extra starter or side dish. Window tables and curvy booths are the best places to sit.

Service: ••½