Though the owners of this Greek-Italian hybrid are from Greece—their son is hotshot Komi chef Johnny Monis—it’s best to go against intuition and order anything with red sauce. It comes on the New York–style pizzas, al dente pastas, and entrées such as lightly breaded eggplant Parmesan and homey lasagna. Gyros are just decent, but the star of the Greek offerings is an appetizer of whipped taramosalata (cod-roe spread) served with warm, butter-brushed pita. It’s an unusual prelude to pizza and pasta but delicious just the same.
-March, 2008
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