Why go: Fresh fixings and more than a passing nod to the gutsy flavors of Thai street food separate this mom-and-pop from spots that are slicker.

What to get: Shrimp Bikini, tight, crunchy bundles with a hit of ginger; chicken or pork larb with roasted rice; sweet-spicy red curry with lean but succulent slices of duck; pad see ew, noodles glazed in a wine-dark soy sauce; drunken noodles shot through with chili, basil, and garlic.

Best for: Diners who crave conversation instead of a scene.

Insider tip: Call ahead to reserve one of the sunken areas in the front window. Though they offer the illusion of sitting on the floor, there’s a cutout for your legs—a sort of westernized version of tatami seating common in Thailand.

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