The best things about the free-form pies at this Loudoun County pizzeria—owned by the same folks behind the neighboring Modern American restaurant Tuscarora Mill—are the high-quality toppings: locally grown veggies, nitrate-free pepperoni and prosciutto, sausage made from Virginia lamb, Mahon cheese. The kitchen’s creative combinations are almost enough to distract from the disappointing crusts, which, despite their time in the wood-burning oven, are oddly flabby and floury. The beers, a mix of Belgian ales and New England porters, are as carefully sourced as the ingredients.
Signature pie: Smokey Blue (Gorgonzola cheese, roasted onions, smoked bacon, dashes of reduced balsamic vinegar).
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
