First Look: Jackson's Mighty Fine Food
Total comfort in Reston.
Reviewed By Todd Kliman, Ann Limpert, Cynthia Hacinli
Comments () | Published December 3, 2008
First Look
Jackson's Mighty Fine Food & Lucky Lounge
Address: 11927 Democracy Dr., Reston, VA 20191
Phone: 703-437-0800
Neighborhood: Reston/Herndon
Cuisines: Sushi, Modern, American
Opening Hours: Open Sunday and Monday 11 AM to 10 PM; Tuesday through Thursday 11 AM to 11 PM; Friday and Saturday 11 AM to midnight.
Price Range: Moderate
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Deviled eggs; duo of dips; lobster mac and cheese; goat cheese and cranberry salad; sea bass in ginger broth; crab cakes; lemon meringue pie; chocolate waffle.
Price Details: Starters $5.50 to $14, main courses $9.50 to $27.
Meals end with a flourish thanks to winners such as lemon pie with a fluff of marshmallow meringue. Photograph by Chris Leaman.

A basket of warm, savory rolls with honey butter is placed in front of you as soon as you sit down. Servers refill your Coke before you think to ask, then scrawl smiley faces on the to-go boxes. All-booth seating means there’s not a bad table.

Comfort, in the room and on the plate, is the biggest reason the Great American Restaurants brand—which includes such establishments as Coastal Flats, Carlyle, and Artie’s—has garnered such loyal audiences. Jackson’s Mighty Fine Food & Lucky Lounge appears destined to follow those successes: The Saturday-night wait at the 260-seat restaurant clocks in at about an hour and a half. You can avoid standing around with a buzzer by calling ahead and putting your name on the list.

The menu, a mash-up of the last decade’s culinary trends, veers from miso-glazed black cod to steak frites to sushi and spring rolls. Meals sometimes sag in the middle, save for reliable main courses like crab cakes and sea bass in ginger broth—entrées also served at the restaurant’s siblings. Better to focus mostly on starters: chopped-pecan-accented deviled eggs with decadent sugar-brûléed bacon strips; a duo of dips that includes zingy guacamole and a riff on pimiento cheese; and a gratin of mac and cheese, its golden crust hiding generous chunks of fresh lobster.

Things pick up at the end with such desserts as lemon pie, with a thick marshmallow meringue and graham-cracker crust, and a warm, pillowy chocolate waffle, which is served at every Great American Restaurants outpost for a reason: It’s the very definition of comfort.

This review appeared in the December, 2008 issue of The Washingtonian.  

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 12/03/2008 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews