100 Best Restaurants 2009: Assaggi
Comments () | Published February 1, 2009
100 Best Restaurants (2010)

Assaggi Mozzarella Bar
Address: 4838 Bethesda Ave., Bethesda, MD 20814
Phone: 301-951-1988
Neighborhood: Bethesda/Glen Echo
Cuisines: Italian
Opening Hours: Open Monday through Thursday 4 PM to 10 PM, Friday 4 PM to 11 PM, Saturday 11:30 AM to 11 PM, and Sunday 11:30 AM to 10 PM.
Nearby Metro Stops: Bethesda
Price Range: Expensive
Dress: Upscale Casual
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Not Needed
Best Dishes Burrata cheese with pesto eggplant, tomato marmalade, and roasted red peppers; salumi; fritto misto; clams in broth with pasta; kale-and-escarole salad; polenta with chicken livers; gnocchi with veal-short-rib ragu and caciocavallo-cheese sauce; pasta w
Price Details: Mozzarella and salumi $12 to $18, starters $8 to $15, entrées (including pasta) $15 to 29; two-course lunch special $15.

Cuisine: Rustic, regionally inspired plates evocative of the trattorias of Italy. Domenico Cornacchia, the onetime corporate toque at Franco Nuschese’s three restaurants (Cafe Milano, Sette Osteria, Sette Bello), is the man shaking sauté pans in the open kitchen.

Mood: Little about the handsome room has changed since the restaurant’s days as Centro, but the setting now is more engaging for couples and families than for singles who are after romance. And though it’s often crowded, the acoustics allow for conversation.

Best for: A casual meal of cheeses and salumi at the mozzarella bar or in the dining room; regional Italian fare and pastas with something for everyone.

Best dishes: Burrata cheese; sliced-to-order Parma prosciutto; condiments of green-tomato marmalade and basil-marinated zucchini; fritto misto of seafood and vegetables; chicken livers over polenta; pappardelle Bolognese; baked pasta in mascarpone sauce; veal short ribs with gremolata; lamb three ways; Alaskan lingcod with mashed celery root and celery salad with capers; chicken Milanese with arugula (lunch menu); buffalo-ricotta cheesecake with lemon zest.

Insider tips: Trying every cheese from the mozzarella bar may be fun, but most distinctive are the creamy burratas and the meaty salumi plates. The $15 two-course lunch special is a great bargain.

Service: ••½

Open daily for lunch and dinner. Moderate to expensive.

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 02/01/2009 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews