Great New Restaurants 2010: Kushi
25 places that are making the Washington dining scene better than ever
Reviewed By Todd Kliman, Ann Limpert, Kate Nerenberg, Rina Rapuano
Comments () | Published September 30, 2010
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Kushi
Address: 465 K St., NW, Washington, DC 20001
Phone: 202-682-3123
Neighborhood: Penn Quarter/Chinatown, Downtown
Cuisines: Tapas/Small Plates, Sushi, Japanese
Opening Hours: Open for lunch Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2:30, Saturday and Sunday noon to 2:30. Open for dinner daily 5:30 to 11. Open late night Thursday through Saturday 11 PM to 2 AM.
Nearby Metro Stops: Mt. Vernon Square/7th St.-Convention Center, Gallery Place-Chinatown
Price Range: Expensive
Dress: Upscale Casual
Noise Level: Rowdy
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Live uni; live scallop; nigiri or sashimi of sweet shrimp, o-toro, yellowtail belly, and mackerel; bari chirashi; grilled meatballs; skewered foie gras; quail stuffed with duck sausage; crispy leg of duck; Meyer-lemon sorbet with shochu; sea-salt gelato;
Price Details: Grilled items $2 to $35, sushi and sashimi $4 to $14.

What makes this Mount Vernon Square restaurant the most exciting to emerge in 2010? Consider the daily special that started a recent meal: five lobes of sweet, fresh sea urchin atop a mound of ice. Chef/owner Darren Lee Norris is so devoted to sourcing the best fish that he gets daily FedEx shipments from Tokyo’s Tsukiji fish market. This dedication is backed by chefs who mind the details: The rice is perfectly balanced between sugar and vinegar, and every piece of nigiri is delicately—meaning classically—portioned. Raw fish is the draw, but the heart of the dining room is the robata, a big charcoal grill commanded by cooks who turn out an array of tasty small plates, including meatballs and skewered slabs of foie gras. The open room can get as loud as a club, but if you listen, you’ll hear that much of the din is about the food—and rightly so.

Don’t miss: Bari chirashi, an assortment of raw fish over rice; sashimi of fresh scallop and yellowtail belly; duck-sausage-stuffed quail; sea-salt gelato.

For a full review of Kushi, click here.

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