100 Best Restaurants 2011: Ris
Comments () | Published January 20, 2011
100 Best Restaurants (2011) 100 Best Restaurants 2012 Happy Hour

Ris
Address: 2275 L St., NW, Washington, DC 20037
Phone: 202-730-2500
Neighborhood: Foggy Bottom/West End, Downtown
Cuisines: Modern, American
Opening Hours: Open for lunch Monday through Friday, 11:30 to 5:30, Saturday and Sunday 3 to 5. Open for dinner Monday through Friday 5:30 to 11, Saturday 5 to 11, Sunday 5 to 9. Open for brunch Saturday and Sunday 10 to 3.
Nearby Metro Stops: Farragut North, Foggy Bottom-GWU
Price Range: Moderate
Dress: Upscale Casual
Noise Level: N/A
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Bay-scallop margarita; onion soup; mussels with chorizo and tomato; gnudi with tomato fondue; charcuterie plate; cheeseburger; sole meunière; cider-glazed pork chop; shell beans with bacon; collards; coffee-fudge sundae; apple-pear pie.
Price Details: Lunch starters, $8 to $15; main courses, $9 to $22. Dinner starters, $8 to $15; main courses, $12 to $28.

Only the top 40 restaurants were ranked in 2011's Best Restaurants list.

Her dining room is only a year old, but chef Ris Lacoste is showing the confidence that comes from doing something very well for a very long time—she spent years working with chef Bob Kinkead, and for a decade she steered the kitchen at Georgetown’s 1789. Her menu might look scattered—shrimp tempura sits next to a textbook beef carpaccio—until you realize that her own sensibility is the common thread.

A standout pot of mussels with chorizo shows Lacoste’s affection for her hometown, Portuguese-heavy New Bedford, Massachusetts. A rich onion soup harks back to her time in France, and dishes such as a raisin-bread panzanella salad and a wonderful scallop “margarita”—a lime-soaked ceviche presented in a salt-rimmed martini glass—won plaudits at 1789.

The dining room, with starched tablecloths and sconces, looks like a refined throwback. But Lacoste is up with the times: Jeans are fine, tables are set aside for walk-ins, and a happy-hour menu lets you slip in for a beer and a plate of deviled eggs.

Also good: Gnudi, light ricotta dumplings; a crudo duo of sesame-crusted tuna and pastrami-cured salmon; orecchiette with rock shrimp and goat cheese; cheeseburger; skirt steak with a runny egg; ice-cream sundaes.

Open Sunday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner. Expensive.

>> See all of 2011's Best Restaurants

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 01/20/2011 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews