This sprawling Ballston outpost is a near replica of the Del Ray original, from the wine-bottle mosaics to the thin-crust pizzas (fig jam with prosciutto is great). But the kitchen is as inconsistent as its sibling’s. A recent meal included a Mediterranean-inspired lamb shank so tough the meat had to be pried from the bone, but also a stellar beet-and-orange salad with tangy goat cheese. Ricotta doughnuts, a recipe from chef Steve Mannino’s mother, are only on the Ballston menu. Too bad for Del Ray diners: The doughnuts are heavenly.
This article appears in the April 2011 issue of The Washingtonian.