Why go: An anomaly in Little Korea: a ten-table mom-and-pop that boasts no signature dish or theme and steers clear of any entreaties to the much-coveted youth demographic. It’s content to let its quiet excellence speak for itself.

What to get: Steamed dumplings called mandu; seafood pancake, a scallion-veined frittata studded with octopus and shrimp; soondubu, spicy tofu soup with oysters; spicy pork-belly barbecue; sul lung tang, the Korean version of Vietnamese pho—long-simmered beef broth garnished with chewy rice cakes, egg, and scallions.

Best for: Anyone intent on giving Korean food a try. Or another try.

Insider tip: Appetizers and entrées are large, so splitting is the way to go. Take advantage of the panchan, the array of small dishes that precedes a Korean meal; it includes some of the freshest, liveliest kimchee around.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

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