Why go: The New Haven–style slices and pies are not only the best in town; they’re worthy of comparison with the best in the country. And the wine list is almost as savvy as the rest of the menu.

What to get: Pete’s Original (tomato and mozzarella) and New Haven style (with chopped clams); salumi-and-ricotta-filled calzone-like sorbillo; “rags” of pasta with Chianti-braised short ribs, cremini mushrooms, cipollini onions, and chard; crispy-goat-cheese salad.

Best for: Families looking for a kid-friendly yet thoughtful approach to pizza, pasta, and panini; folks with food allergies, who can opt for gluten-free and soy-cheese-topped pies; and anyone who loves a great slice (though it’s billed as New Haven pizza, New Yorkers will feel at home, too.)

Insider tip: Even when crowds huddle at the door—and they often do—the order-at-the-counter policy makes things move at a fair clip. During happy hour (Monday through Friday 4 to 6:30), a slice and a Moretti beer go for $5 and house wines are half price.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

>> See all 2009 Cheap Eats restaurants here