Cuisine: Mussels, steak frites, country pâté—rear-guard staples of the Parisian bistro scene—dominate the menu at this likable, dependable Eastern Market hot spot, but there’s an occasional nontraditional special or two.

Mood: A loud, clangy place that packs customers in so tightly you could pluck a fry off your neighbor’s table. In other words, a real bistro where you’ll find Le Chat Noir posters, not a celebrity chef.

Best for: A budget date; a raucous, wine-soaked dinner with friends.

Best dishes: Mussels with chorizo or shallots and cream; duck pâté with Armagnac (a special); braised rabbit with buttery linguine; hanger steak in a richly reduced red-wine sauce; floating island, a meringue surrounded by crème anglaise; crème brûlée; fruit tarts.

Insider tips: Brunch, so often an afterthought, gets respect here.

Service: ••

Open Tuesday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch and dinner. Moderate.

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