Singles hang out at the bar with its roster of boutique sakes, while families fill the red-and-teal dining room, where service can be sluggish. Still the crowds keep coming for such innovations as oyster-and-tofu tempura; robatayaki, grilled bits of ginkgo, vegetables, and seafood; and bright stir-fries including ginger pork. There’s also sushi and sashimi by the piece or platter.
-March, 2008