1122 Ninth St., NW
Washington, DC 20001
Neighborhood: U Street/Shaw, Downtown
Cuisines: Modern, American
Open for dinner Monday through Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 PM.
Nearby Metro Stops: Mt. Vernon Square/7th St.-Convention Center
Price Range: Expensive
Noise Level: Intimate
Kabocha-squash soup with cheese crisp; red-snapper bisque; duck-egg-and-leg salad; lamb loin with garlic crépinette and creamed spinach; Muscovy duck with fig sauce; chocolate tart with caramelized bananas; house-made ice creams.
Expensive; entrées $20 to $32.
Special Features: Valet Parking Available
This restaurant, once hidden in a downtown DC Sheraton, is now only somewhat hidden on a quiet block in Shaw near the Washington Convention Center. Inside, the rowhouse exudes a quiet sophistication--there's no music, the dining room tends to be hushed, and servers are on the serious side.
It's a fitting setting for Tom Power's cooking, which is similarly free of flash. He has the confidence to be straightforward--unusual at a time when many chefs concoct dishes that sound like science experiments--putting out a simple, beautifully roasted capon and the same chocolate-banana tart he's been making for years. Surprises reveal themselves slowly. The best examples are his complexly layered soups. If we see one on the menu, we order it. The $65 five-course tasting menu is an excellent value.
What to get: Beet salad with goat cheese; cauliflower-and-Parmesan soup; rare tuna with seaweed salad and sushi rice; scallops in any preparation; antelope with chestnut purée; chocolate sabayon, a baked chocolate dessert somewhere between custard and a soufflé.
Open Monday through Saturday for dinner. Expensive.