The menu of this Palisades seafood emporium gets a summertime lift from the seasonal bounty of its fish market. A special of South Carolina royal-red shrimp, sweet as lobster, shone in a spicy rémoulade with lightly toasted brioche. The flavors are just as bright and true in a tartare of Hawaiian bigeye tuna atop a soy-glazed rice cake. Though a fabulous bread basket filled with country bread, focaccia, and dinner rolls might seem a harbinger of good things to come from the pastry kitchen, desserts—such as an overly boozy and sweet butterscotch pot de crème and a hulking slice of dry-crusted banana-coconut cream pie—appear to be coasting.
This article appeared in the July, 2008 issue of The Washingtonian.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
