All Purpose

Two sensibilities are at work at these Shaw and Navy Yard pizza shops: Jersey-Italian abundance and cheffy discernment. They tend to dovetail when it comes to pizza—the sturdily crisp, slightly sour crusts may pair, say, grandmotherly meatballs with sheep’s-milk ricotta and neonata sauce, an anchovy-chili condiment. Smaller plates change with the seasons, but a few things, like ultra-gooey eggplant parm and a zesty house salad, stick around.