Nue

“Got your camera ready?” asks the server as he lifts a tall glass cloche, unleashing billows of smoke around a banana-and-rum cocktail. That—and the flower explosion of a dining room—are geared for the ’gram, but this swank Vietnamese newcomer is about way more than optics. Start with a round of crunchy rolls stuffed with shrimp, lump crab, and pork, or an unexpectedly fiery fennel salad. Then dig into a fried whole fish with spicy-sweet pineapple sauce and a mountain of herbs, or a soothing plate of pappardelle topped with a short-rib ragu that sings with lemon­grass. The best dessert is comparatively simple: spears of yuca cake with a scoop of purple ube ice cream.