Parkway Deli and Restaurant

September 2004 Best of Silver Spring

Though Parkway is no Katz's, it does have its charms. The pickle bar is one. An elixir-like matzo-ball soup is another. Matzo balls that are light instead of leaden, a robust broth, eggy noodles, and tender chicken make for a comforting bowl. Chopped chicken liver goes it alone on the good rye or as a schmear on corned beef and pastrami, which though lean, make an acceptable sandwich. Stuffed cabbage and stuffed derma with gravy also have their fans.

Sable is the best of the smoked-fish choices–smoked Nova Scotia salmon and whitefish are also available. Parkway has a large local following; at lunchtime and on weekends the place is jammed. It also has the feel of a place that's been there forever. And in a world where real delis are being replaced by chains, that counts.