March 2005

This family-operated restaurant does not distinguish itself by the length of its menu or the exotic nature of its entries. Rather, it's the fine preparation of traditional dishes and assured service that draws customers to the pretty dining room. Prices are right, too. Aside from whole fish and an assortment of stir-fried seafood, no dish reaches $10.

The appetizers include chicken satay, deep-fried or steamed spring rolls, fried fish patties with sweet-and-sour sauce, fried bean curd, and minced pork and shrimp wrapped in bean-curd skin and deep-fried. Nothing unusual, but everything well prepared. Spicy room-temperature salads are good to share as appetizers or will serve as a light main course. Spicy grilled beef and crispy catfish are happy choices. A trio of fine main courses includes the pra ram long-song, sliced steamed chicken breast on steamed broccoli with spicy peanut sauce; pad ma keur, stir-fried sliced Thai eggplant with black-bean sauce, basil leaves, sliced chili, and a choice of meats; and roasted-duck curry with honey, pineapple, tomato, basil, and coconut milk. The traditional pad Thai is very good.