Yosaku (moderate). This dependable Japanese restaurant is beginning to look a little old compared with the newer Murasaki just a block away. It's an old-timer in the Tenleytown neighborhood, and it has a loyal clientele.

Sushi, Yosaku's strength, is a very good deal–$14 for the basic sushi assortment at dinner. There's much more than raw fish on the menu–negimaki, grilled beef wrapped around scallions; grilled fish with teriyaki sauce; very good tempura; and terrific tonkatsu, pork coated in panko crumbs and crisply fried. Service is prompt and friendly.

Yosaku, 4712 Wisconsin Ave., NW; 202-363-4453. Open daily for dinner, Monday through Friday for lunch.

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