Urban Bar-B-Que

The offbeat creations here include Redneck Fondue and Buried Corndogs.

From June 2006 Cheap Eats

Thanks to a renovation, a real dining room has been added to this popular carryout, and wine and beer are now available. But lest you think Urban has gone upscale, the menu is the same–an irreverent ode to barbecue with jokey junk-food concoctions like Buried Corn Dogs and Redneck Fondue.

For the best barbecue, go for pork–a slab of beautifully crusted ribs redolent of applewood and hickory or pulled pork on a bun. A splash of Yella, a sauce of brown sugar and mustard tart with lemon juice, or the even more assertive Carolina, a brew of vinegar and hot peppers, enhances the smoky thrill. Chicken and brisket are less exciting.

DonÕt be too 'cue-centric: Urban makes a juicy burger with applewood bacon, cheddar, and jack, and that same bacon does a whopping BLT proud–the secret's in the thick slices of Texas toast. Most of the sides are superfluous, but don't miss the potato salad, whose mayonnaisey glory screams picnic.

Redneck Fondue, a cheese-and-chili concoction with tortilla-chip dippers, or Buried Corn Dogs (they're buried in the fondue) are sure to bring out anyone's inner child. Urban Legend is a pig-laden take on seven-layer dip–a heaping pile of brisket, sausage, and barbecue beans on a raft of Fritos.

Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.