In Palermo, brioche con gelato is a popular lunchtime staple at bakery/gelaterias — a sort of Italian ice cream sandwich. Now, brioche con gelato ($5.50) is available on our side of the pond at the new Pitango Gelato. Hazelnut is the traditional flavor of choice to tuck into an oval brioche lightly glazed with butter, sugar, and salt, but any will do. What's vital is that the brioche is served warm, so that the gelato melts into the bread. It's enough to make us rethink our concept of lunch — and anticipate the opening of another Pitango closer to home (on P Street off Dupont Circle) later this summer or in early fall.
Pitango Gelato, 802 S. Broadway, Baltimore; 410-702-5828; Pitangogelato.com.