It’s rare that what’s in a curry is equal to the sauce, but the braised pork in red curry at this slyly elegant cafe is one of the exceptions. The lusciousness of the curry is amplified by the tender juiciness of the meat, sliced thick and shingled à la Sunday pot roast. If nothing else reaches such heights, the kitchen, with its devotion to country-style Thai, pumps out brightly flavored hits: wok-roasted cashews and hot peppers, excellent dumplings, a salad of Chinese sausage and marinated cucumbers, and a stir-fry of crispy catfish with leaves of thin and crunchy basil.
This review appeared in the August, 2008 issue of The Washingtonian.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
