(7185 Lee Hwy., Falls Church, 703-534-1908; 5838 Columbia Pike, Falls Church, 703-379-8080). It helps to ask the butcher at these amply stocked delis and groceries—which specialize in German, Austrian, and Swiss delicacies—to talk you through the 34 types of cold cuts and salamis, 17 bratwursts, and two kielbasas. Or you can brave the German aufschnitt ($9.95 a pound), a sampling of mixed cold cuts that includes tongue, blood sausage, and head cheese. We like pairing the würzburger ($8.59 a pound), a smooth ham flecked with tongue, with steamed rye bread ($3.59) and a smear of coarse Inglehoffer mustard ($1.89). Round out the meal with a helping of the vinegary fleisch salad ($6.25 a pound), a mix of pork sausage, pickles, parsley, and dill. Don’t forget to browse the collection of hard-to-find beers, which includes the smoked rauchbier and Stiegel’s Austrian version of the shandy—half beer and half lemon soda.
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Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
