Matchbox – Capitol Hill

Tavern standbys get an upscale gloss at this Capitol Hill spinoff of the popular Chinatown restaurant. Delirium Tremens is on draft, the burgers are delicately downsized and sided with lacy onion straws, and the pizzas emerge from a brick oven. If you can't score a table the restaurant does a brisk takeout business. 

What to get: Plates of mini-burgers—salt-and-peppery Angus patties topped with Gouda and pickles on buttered brioche; a calzonelike crust folded around layers of mozzarella, pepperoni, and spicy meatballs; apple-and-pear salad with Gorgonzola; brick-oven pizzas such as the fire-and-smoke, sausage-and-onion, and Matchbox meat varieties.

Open weekends for lunch, daily for dinner.