The Needle: Corduroy

Tom Power’s quietly confident, free-of-flash cooking is as good as ever. Ribbons of pasta darkened with squid ink and graced with sweet lump crabmeat and a hint of butter made a dish as special as it was simple. Beautifully fried soft-shell crabs needed only a few drops of aged balsamic vinegar and a bed of wilted greens, and a pleasantly fatty Ivory King salmon was nearly upstaged by a warm, lemony potato salad. Prices have crept up, but a $55 three-course dinner menu feels like a relative bargain.


-August 2009 

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