This 77-year-old basement watering hole meets lots of dive-bar criteria—low ceilings, graffitied bathrooms, sticky floors, a vintage jukebox. That makes paging through the beer and food menus as unexpected an experience as peeling back the foil on an airplane meal to find filet mignon. The regularly changing list of brews is around 300 deep, with options ranging from domestic microbrews to Trappist Belgian beers. Burgers are formed from organic beef, and potato chips and tater tots are house-made. But everything’s served in plastic baskets, of course.