Pit barbecue, cooked for hours at a low temperature over a smoldering pile of aromatic wood, is an ideal that area restaurants rarely reach–open pits are outlawed in Montgomery and Prince George’s counties.
Kerry Britt makes do, often gloriously. The pit man of this strip-mall restaurant starts his spice-rubbed ribs, briskets, chickens, and turkeys in a closed smoker in the back of the restaurant until the meat turns a deep pink, then finishes them on the grill.
The ribs–the best in the area–aren’t too big or thick; the meat’s tender succulence compels you to gorge even if you’ve promised not to.
Also good: Spicy country sausage links; KB Wings; shrimp potato salad.
Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
Andrew Beaujon joined Washingtonian in late 2014. He was previously with the Poynter Institute, TBD.com, and Washington City Paper. He lives in Del Ray.
