Pit barbecue, cooked for hours at a low temperature over a smoldering pile of aromatic wood, is an ideal that area restaurants rarely reach–open pits are outlawed in Montgomery and Prince George’s counties.
Kerry Britt makes do, often gloriously. The pit man of this strip-mall restaurant starts his spice-rubbed ribs, briskets, chickens, and turkeys in a closed smoker in the back of the restaurant until the meat turns a deep pink, then finishes them on the grill.
The ribs–the best in the area–aren’t too big or thick; the meat’s tender succulence compels you to gorge even if you’ve promised not to.
Also good: Spicy country sausage links; KB Wings; shrimp potato salad.
Open daily for lunch and dinner.