Cheap Eats 2011: EatBar

With its boppy indie-pop soundtrack, 65 wines by the glass, and Sunday movie nights, this chilled-out place would be easy to like even without good food. Culinarily speaking, it’s had its ups and downs over the years, but the kitchen is now putting out some of the best food we’ve eaten there–a feat considering that Barry Koslow, the acclaimed chef who oversaw this and neighboring restaurant Tallula, has departed. Burgers have always been a strength here, whether in regular or slider form, fries have a double-fried crispness, and wings get a zippy Sriracha-stoked glaze. The eclectic menu is leaning Southern right now, which means you’ll find an excellent toasted cornbread with jalapeño jelly, an over-the-top-rich chicken-and-waffle plate, and tiny braised-pork sandwiches with slaw. When you’ve blown that many calories, you might as well have dessert. Here, make it a banana split atop a Belgian waffle.

Also good: Fettuccine with olives and sausage meatballs; onion rings.

Open daily for dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch.

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