Tuesday, August 14 at 11 AM

Where can you get a three-star experience at one-star prices? Which hot new restaurant merits the scorching hype? The answer to all these questions and more can be found Tuesdays at 11 AM on Kliman Online.

Where can you get a three-star experience at one-star prices? Which hot new
restaurant merits the scorching hype? The answer to all these questions
and more can be found Tuesdays at 11 AM on Kliman Online.

From scoping out scruffy holes in the wall to weighing the merits of
four-star wanna-bes, from scouring the ‘burbs and exurbs to hitting the
city’s streets, Todd Kliman covers a lot of territory. Winner of a James
Beard Foundation Award in 2005 for the country’s best newspaper column
about food, Kliman is food and wine editor and restaurant critic for The Washingtonian. His work has appeared in The New Yorker, Harper’s, The Oxford American, The Daily Beast and Men’s Health, among others, and he has been selected four times for inclusion in the Best Food Writing anthologies. He is the author of The Wild Vine,
a literary exploration of two entwined mysteries: an obscure grape that
rose to prominence, only to disappear, and its present-day evangelist, a
foul-mouthed transgendered multi-millionaire vintner on an obsessive
quest to restore the legend of an antebellum southern doctor.

Can’t wait a week to talk to Todd? Follow him on Twitter for dining reports, tips, and breaking news from the culinary world.

W H E R E   I ‘ M   E A T I N G   N O W   .  .  .

Vin 909 Winecafe, Annapolis
I feasted on a couple of
superlative pizzas not long ago, and they didn’t come from 2 Amys,
Pete’s New Haven Style Pizza, Pupatella, Moroni & Brother’s, Comet,
Orso, Haven Pizzeria, Graffiato or Menomale. They came from the kitchen
at this always-swarmed, no-reservations wine bar, housed in a restored
craftsman bungalow just over the bridge from Annapolis in tiny Eastport.
The key players are Alex Manfredonia, who works the front of the (tiny)
house, and Justin Moore; the pair met working at a restaurant in San
Francisco, and headed east to take over the space previously occupied by
Wild Orchid Cafe. Moore and his team produce a crust that’s close to
perfect—thin, marvelously hillocked, chewy where it needs to be and
crispy everywhere else, and hit with just enough salt. The Margherita is
more heavily dressed than is usual, but it’s excellent, and so is an
unlikely concoction of baked beans, Tillamook cheese, fontina and
coleslaw. Don’t miss the spin on a lobster roll, with creamy,
chive-flecked crab salad tucked between two griddled squares of bread;
there’s a cup of seafood bisque for dunking.

Blue Duck Tavern, DC
my Twitter feed last week, I teased the news that made a “massive and
exciting leap,” then sat back and watched the guesses pour in. No one
came up with the right place, and to be honest, if I hadn’t been there
to enjoy it, I would never have guessed, either. Sebastien Archambault
is a major talent, and without overhauling the menu or concept has given
a restaurant that had slid dangerously close to irrelevance in the past
year or so the kiss of life.

Indaroma, Alexandria
for this excellent find goes to regular reader, N.A. This Alexandria
shop is a bakery and catering service with a small cafe. You order at
the counter. Atmosphere is a flat-screen TV turned to a food channel.
None of that matters when the food arrives—a palaak chaat that’s
nearly as virtuosic and delicious as the tour de force dish that has
become a signature item at Rasika; fantastic kati rolls made with rumali
roti and not flour tortillas; and rich and vibrant curries.

El Chucho Cocina Superior, DC

When it’s on, an exhilarating tour through the intricate,
layered flavors of regional Mexican cooking, backed by a long list of
cocktails, margaritas, sipping tequilas and mezcals. Early hits: a smoky
grilled corn cob impaled on a skewer, spritzed with lime, rolled in
grated cheese and dusted with queso fresco; the tongue-shaped chips
known as huaraches, topped with crumbled queso fresco and pickled onions
and served with a sublime dark mole; a torta, or sub, that impersonates
a Manwich and a Chicago beef sandwich all at once—chopped adobo pork
dredged in a spicy Arbol chili sauce, garnished with black beans,
onions, avocado and chihuahua cheese and then submerged in that same
sauce again before serving (forgo the accompanying plastic gloves and
give in to the sloppy lusciousness).

Menomale, DC

Of the crop of Neapolitan-style pizzerias that made their debut
sometime in the past year, I’m most partial to this tiny Brookland
operation, a joint venture of hophead Leland Estes and pizzaiolo Ettore
Rusciano. Rusciano is a passionate craftsman, with an eye for balance
(the best of these pies are chewy where they need to be and crispy where
they need to be), a respect for proportionality, and an understanding
of the importance of salt. That same great dough is used for the tasty
calzones and sandwiches. You can even sample it in the must-order
starter, the affetata, an attractive selection of meats and cheeses.

Green Pig Bistro, Arlington
One of the best and most
intriguing of the current crop of Hipster Farmhouse restaurants
(dishtowel napkins, bluegrass in the air, repurposed wood and yard-sale
tchochkes throughout). The chef, Scot Harlan, an alumnus of the kitchen
at Inox, cooks with precision and clarity, making light of a plate of
crispy pig tacos (the pig, here, is salty, crunchy matchsticks of
julienned ears) and even a country-style pate. There’s a fantastic
drinks menu, and a not-bad selection of Virginia wines, including a
Michael Shaps Cab Franc that sells for $5 a glass; it’s a perfect match
for the rich, porky treats. 

Moa, Rockville 
You’d never find it if you weren’t
looking for it. Situated in the fascinating industrial sector of
Rockville, amid a slew of old warehouses and specialty supply stores,
this cozy Korean mom ‘n’ pop is about as hidden as hidden gems get. The
cooking is vivid and punchy—great bibimbap, served several ways, along
with a parade of soups, noodle dishes and stir frys. Order a soju to
wash it all down; the mango and watermelon are fresh and gently sweet, a
good counterpart to the garlicky intensity of the food.

Maple Avenue, Vienna
diners might be skeptical of splurging for $20 + entrees in a tiny,
repurposed diner where the 8 tables are wedged together so closely the
room can feel like one big dinner party when the drinks are flowing.
Others might be skeptical of the menu, which bends in a dozen different
directions, implying a kitchen with a scattered,
be-everything-to-everyone vision— which is to say, no vision at all. But
this is a surprisingly focused restaurant —and a surprisingly rewarding
one, too, a place that feels like a personal statement, backed by an
amiable staff that clearly aims to send you away smiling. The chef and
owner, Tim Ma, does his part, too. He makes a mean shrimp and grits, and
his beef cheek sandwich with beer battered fries is one of the best
simple plates around. Don’t miss the bread pudding.

Fiola, DC
Trabocchi’s edge-of-Penn Quarter restaurant has put its tentative
beginnings behind it. The dishes emerging from the brick-framed,
herb-potted kitchen find the prodigiously talented chef moving further
and further from the controlled elegance of his work at the late
Maestro. They also find him cooking with a renewed confidence and
conviction. The best of these plates—an astonishingly flavorful ragu of
wild hare with thick bands of papardelle, a double-cut,
prosciutto-wrapped veal chop with toasted hazelnuts that accent the
sweetness and nuttiness of the meat, a bowl of tender meatballs in a
tomato sauce that frankly puts most Italian grandmothers to shame—marry
rusticity with refinement. Desserts—including a fabulous cone of
sugar-dusted bomboloni, with pots of apple marmalade and cinnamon
gelato—remain a rousing finish.

Sidebar, Silver Spring
Diana Davila-Boldin, a Windy City native, has improved upon her Chicago
dog—grilling the link, griddling the bun and overloading the ripe,
fresh toppings. The result? The best dog in Washington, and better than
any Chicago dog I have ever had in Chicago. I’d give this
poolhall/hipster bar/cafe a spot on the list just for that, but I also
love her mini-falafel, her homemade sausages, her cod fritters, and the
cochinita tacos that amount to a glorious precis of El Chucho’s Cocina
Superior—Jackie Greenbaum’s forthcoming “inauthentic Mexican”
restaurant, in Columbia Heights.

Mintwood Place, DC
owner Saied Azali was lucky to land Cedric Maupillier, formerly the  
chef at Central and before that the chef de cuisine at Citronelle, for
his rusticky new bistro. The Toulon native is doing typically great
work—cranking out lovingly faithful renditions of such bistro classics
as cassoulet (see if you can finish it without two glasses of wine) and
steak tartare (the tiny, crunchy tater tots on top are a clever allusion
to his old boss, Michel Richard) as well as offering up some sly, smart
takes on tradition (frogs’ legs with black walnut romesco, a lamb
tongue moussaka). There’s a whole boneless dorade with picholine olives
and braised fennel that’s a knockout—beautifully conceived, perfectly

East Pearl, Rockville
superlative addition to the unofficial Chinatown of northern Rockville,
this cheery, subtly modish restaurant is turning out uncommonly
clean-tasting versions of standard Hong Kong-style fare, including
shrimp dumpling soup, shrimp with walnuts, and soyed chicken—all
spectacular. And don’t miss a Shanghai-style noodle dish that brings
together angel hair, roast pork, shrimp, green onions and a generous
spoonful of yellow curry powder into a light, greaseless and remarkably
vivid whole.

Today’s Contest: Your favorite Julia Child memory

In honor of Julia Child’s 100th birthday, we want to hear about your most cherished memory of the lady who brought French cuisine into American homes. Was it the first time you saw her whisking away on public television? The time you seduced your now-spouse with Julia’s duck a l’orange? As always, don’t just tell Todd what the memory is, take us into that moment. The winner receives a copy of Child’s seminal cookbook, Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Bon appetit!

Washington, DC:

Can you recommend where in DC or the metro area to get a good (dessert) souffle? Chocolate preferred.

Todd Kliman

I’d try La Chaumiere, in Georgetown, one of the grand dames of the restaurant scene.

Adour also does soufflés, but I don’t think they’re doing a chocolate one at the moment. But it’s a superlative souffle. Textbook.

Same for Marcel’s.

Doug H – Arlington VA:


I’m just catching up on your chat from two weeks ago where someone asked whether there are any Cambodian restaurants in the area. That reminded of one of my favorite, now long-gone restaurants—Cambodia Restaurant, which was in the little Rosslyn strip shopping center where Ray’s Hell Burger and the original Pho 75 now are. I think it closed in the mid to late 90s.

The food was good, and distinctive enough that my wife would take adventurous out-of-town visitors there. The cuisine was not at all like Vietnamese or Thai, noodle-heavy and crunchy—probably more similar to Burmese than any other cuisine.

But what I really miss about the place is the decor. It had scores and scores of colorful Asian paper parasols hanging from the ceiling, twisting slowly in whatever breeze they might catch. Really lovely and relaxing, and at a total cost of probably $100. When I read about one of these six-month restaurant “makeovers” costing a million dollars-plus, I often think, “Hmmm, couldn’t they just buy a bunch of those little paper umbrellas?”

Todd Kliman

Doug, thanks so much for writing in with these memories …

I remember Cambodia Restaurant, and when it closed I remember thinking: Somebody please come along and do another. And then thinking: Fat chance.

I’m so with you about these high-profile restaurant renovations. I honestly think a lot of that money goes to waste. I think lighting matters a GREAT deal. Really good lighting can set a mood like no other. But you can create mood and intimacy and sexiness with very little. We’ve all been in a place where the details are so interesting and so eye-catching that people can’t relax in there, including the staff, and everything feels very, very stagy and forced.

Cleveland Park:

Hi Todd,

I find I never order the chicken dish at upscale restaurants. KFC, Nandos? Sure. But there seems like the impulse is always to go with the steak, or the pork belly or the fish. You know, something that can’t be easily whipped up on a Wednesday night. Chicken just gives me the impression of “easy”, but perhaps I am oversimplifying things. Do you usually go for chicken? What are the poultry dishes around town worth eating

Todd Kliman

I know what you mean, but you know what? A really great chicken is NOT something that most of us can do at home.

There are chefs who will tell you, in fact: judge me by my chicken. Invariably, they are talking about a roast chicken. Never a chicken breast.

Chefs hate chicken breast. They only put it on their menus to satisfy the picky diner or the dieting diner. They think it’s boring. And if you order the chicken breast dish, most of the time it is. They’re bored, and the meat itself is boring, and the dish often lacks conviction.

But a roast chicken is different.

Of chicken dishes I’ve had of late, I’ll give high marks to the ones at Palena, Blue Duck, Atlas Room and Kafe Leopold.

And a special mention of the soyed chicken at East Pearl, which I last ate about 2 1/2 months ago and still cannot keep thinking about


Went to Menomale this weekend for lunch and had a wonderful meal. Their pizza is spot on and probably the best Neopolitan pizza being made in DC right now. Their crust and dough were just as you described it. Also, loved the fact that they did not slice the pizza, making it a true Neopolitan pizza. I do wish they had more space for people to sit but it was good to see that they do offer outside patio seating.

Last night went over to H street and tried out H &Pizza. I like their concept and the different types of pizza they offer. We had the backyard garden and the moonstruck pizza. Both were deliciouis and had a nice crust. You can tell they took time and effort to come up with their various signature pizzas. I asked them how they would classify their pizza and they said they don’t like people referring to their pizza as a “flatbread” but more of their own unique style. The only negative is that the line does get long because each person waits for their pizza to come out. It might be more efficient for them to take a person’s order have them pay, give them an order number and pick up the pizza when ready (or deliver it to their table) instead of having the line back up and grow while each person waits for their pizza to come out. Another thing I noticed is that a few pizzas had to be remade because they were sticking to the pan as they came out of the oven.

I liked both places and plan on visiting each one again in the near future

Todd Kliman

I really hate to burden Menomale with expectations.

I mean, it’s such a tiny, tiny place, and it’s only been open a few months, and every new pizzeria, especially boutique pizzeria, that opens in this city is inevitably compared with 2 Amys, often to its great detriment, and I really am uncomfortable with the idea of pumping up this little place beyond what it is capable of being, and being consistently.

But right now I think it’s putting out the b—

And … cut.


Hi Todd! Tomorrow’s my birthday (hurray!), but I don’t know where to go for dinner. I would like to go somewhere nice and special occasion-y that doesn’t cost a lot of money. I’m turning 23, so as you can imagine, the budget is limited. Do you have any ideas?


Todd Kliman

Can you give me a sense of how much you’re willing to spend? If I have a range, and maybe a set of likes, I promise to direct you to someplace special.

Scott, DC:

Hi Todd,

I am heading to Ocean City, MD for a conference, and have never been there before. Do you, or any other chatters, have suggestions for places to eat on the way there and/ or in Ocean City?


Todd Kliman


Arlington, VA:


I have an old friend coming to town who just finished writing a book and who loves to eat all kinds of food. We want to take him out for a fun night. There will be six of us for dinner on Thursday night. Any budget/any cuisine/any neighborhood in NW DC or NOVA.

Where should we go? The problem is that it is restaurant week and therefore so many places are booked. We want new and/or interesting. We only just found out that he was coming this week.

Todd Kliman

First of all, what’s the book?

And since you said “interesting” and since it’s Restaurant Week, I’d really consider Bangkok Golden in Falls Church for its Laotian menu. A great place to go with a group, since you can really explore the menu, and the flavors ought to give you something to talk about. The cooking has enough in common with Thai to be somewhat familiar, and especially if you have eaten northern Thai, but you may remind also be reminded of Vietnamese cooking (some dishes are seasoned with dill, for instance, and bundling meats and fishes with lettuce leaves is common).

In general, I find, the flavors are bright and pingy and pungent. It’s an exciting meal. And a very, very reasonably priced one.

And I doubt that it’ll be booked.

If you go, and I hope you do, be sure to come back on and drop me a note with a report …

Vienna, VA:

I wanted to take an out of town friend to Rasika on Friday but Restaurant Week is interfering—so I need Plan B. I don’t care if the restaurant has restaurant week prices!

Any suggestions?
Thank you!

Todd Kliman

I’m not sure I’m understanding.

Rasika is doing Restaurant Week, too. Are you saying you don’t want to eat there during RW, but anywhere else?


Do you have any restaurant recommendations for Portland, OR? Any suggestions would be much appreciated! Thanks so much!

Todd Kliman

Take it away, Jessica.

(Jessica Voelker—our producer and resident Portland food nerd).

Jessica Voelker

A trip to Portland, lucky you!

I love Beast for a feast, Simpatica for brunch, Laurelhurst Market for lunch, the Bluehour for happy hour, Clyde Common and Teardrop for excellent cocktails, and Pok Pok for everything—atmosphere, food, drinks…all of it.

I also highly recommend the expert advice of the great food team at Portland Monthly.

They’ll steer you right.


I will say it for you: “best Neopolitan in DC.”

I am curious to see how the concept that Edan MacQuaid is working on will turn out (the space he is developing on 14th Street). He is known as one of the best neopolitan pizza makers in the area for quite some time.

Todd Kliman

Maybe the best, and easily the most peripatetic.

The Larry Brown of pizzaiolos.

I’m remembering an old Tony Kornheiser line about Brown circa early 90s, I want to say: “Wherever he goes, he wins. Wherever he wins, he leaves.”

Something I’d be interested in seeing in this city — more pizzerias that aren’t Neapolitan or Neapolitan style. More pizzerias that aren’t boutique.

Pete’s, in this sense, is a pretty obvious exception to the rule. I’d add in Haven Pizzeria — which makes a fantastic white clam pizza, though I’m not enamored of all that much else there, including the over-imposing space and the prices — and the Spike Mendelsohn place, We the Pizza. And of course the new H and Pizza.

More outside the Neapolitan vein, though. More options. There’re a lot of different routes to something delicious.


My favorite Julia Child memory is when she went on Saturday Night Live in the 1970s and pretended to cut her finger with a knife while preparing a chicken.

Not only was she a great cook, but she turned out to be a fine comic actor as well. That was her, right?

Todd Kliman

know a lot of people think that that’s the ultimate Julia Child impersonation.

But I’ve got one better. Here’s the very hyper, very over-the-top, very funny Mario Cantone recalling classic Julia — “when she still stood upright.” It starts at about 1:20 in …

Rob – Alexandria, VA:

I’m in search of a good place to find migas in the DMV … any favorites?

Todd Kliman

Love migas.

For those who don’t know this dish, it’s essentially an egg scramble with diced peppers and onions and chilis, with some grated cheese and maybe some tortilla strips. If you’ve got great tortillas to go alongside, it’s even better. I’m not usually a big breakfast eater, but when I’m in the Southwest I’m always eager to get to breakfast and dive into a plate of migas.

In DC, you can find them at a number of places—Rio Grande Cafe, Austin Grill, Oyamel I think has ‘em on the brunch menu, Don Jaime in Mt. Pleasant.


Hi Todd, following up on the birthday Q. I think $30 per person is probably the max. I really like anything, but especially ethnic food … Thai Xing and Zenebech Injera are probably two of my favorite places in DC! (Not picky, though. 🙂

if you could recommend somewhere with good desserts, that would be wonderful.

Todd Kliman

Caitlin, what about Las Canteras in Adams Morgan?

Seems to me very much in the spirit of those two places you mention, both of which I like a lot.

It’s a really good Peruvian place, and the chef, Eddy Ancasi, makes a superb sopa de camarones and an equally wonderful ceviche. (The early portion of the menu is the more rewarding.) And you can probably also get a drink and stay within budget. Plus, you’re in Adams Morgan, an ongoing party.

Oh, and for dessert — look for the arroz con leche with rum-soaked raisins.

If you do end up going, I’d love to hear a report … happy early birthday!


Hi Todd,
I’m behind the ball, but I want to make Restaurant Week reservations. I know you consider lunch to be the best deal (and I agree), but unfortunately I just can’t get away from my desk, and a lot of places exclude weekend brunch in the promotion. Do you have a “Top Five” list of recommendations for dinner? Or any? Thanks!

Todd Kliman

Well, here’s a link to a Restaurant Week Guide I just put together, using my traditional tier system. It just went live on the website.

I point out in the post that I made exceptions for dinner at two places: Fiola and Mintwood Place. I just think that much of the cooking of Fabio Trabocchi at the former and Cedric Maupillier at the latter, and have a hunch that even though $35.12 isn’t a deal that a RW meal at those two places will be special.


Pizzas are like cheesesteaks. They are great to compare on all levels and enjoy the uniqueness that each style brings to the table.

Todd Kliman

Much, much more variety than cheesesteaks, but I understand your point.

And since we’re talking about pizza, and also about pizzas that depart from the Neapolitan norm around here, I want to say again how terrific the pies are at Vin 909 in Annapolis (technically Eastport), a wine bar co-owned and operated by Alex Manfredonia. The chef is Justin Moore. Both spent years working and cooking in San Francisco.

What I like about these pizzas: fabulous crusts, combinations that are both interesting and smart, good use of salt.

Really, of all the pizzas I’ve eaten in the past six months, I probably think more about the pies here and at Menomale than any other.

Concertgoer, Reston:

Going to Strathmore this week and wonder where we should eat before the concert Coming from VA, so don’t know the surrounding area. Thanks.

Todd Kliman

Black Market Bistro if you’re looking for very good American cooking in a charming setting.

East Pearl if you’re looking for great Chinese cooking; shrimp dumpling soup, soyed chicken, seafood congee.

This, by the way, is the exact same advice I recently gave to Sarah Chang, the fantastic violinist. Her conductor wrote looking for a rec for after her recent concert at Strathmore.


Hi Todd,

There are 2 predictabilities that I’m sorely tired of seeing on the DC-area restaurant stage nowadays. I have a couple more but these 2 things have a lot to do with if I will seriously consider going to a place. The first is decor: I agree with the poster who wondered about the over-the-top restaurant revamps/decor. It’s too much. I think if only a few places in the area were super swanky, I might not object as much. Since so many are reinventing themselves to be dressed to the nines, I tend to be suspect right away and a place will have to win me over on every other element. The second are the predictable menu items: (You are right, roast chicken is one of a handful of dishes that test a chef’s competency.) The 2, in particular, are steak and pork belly (a la pig and automatic flavor). So predictable. And so easy. Steak is one of the easiest things to cook. I’d be okay if the steaks that were being brought out at many area restaurants were top-notch, as they should be, because it’s kind of, well, that kind of meal. I’m wondering if you’ve noticed a general decline of steak quality being served in area restaurants and an explanation as to why–I’d be most interested.

Thanks for letting me share.

Todd Kliman

I haven’t had a great steak in this area in years.

I’m not trying to be provocative in saying that, either. I’d love to find one. Come to think of it, the last great steak I ate was in Chicago. And that was two years ago.

The reason that you see steaks on menus is not because chefs like steak. The steak is there for the stick-in-the-mud, the diner who isn’t willing to try something like cod or suckling pig. Steak is a slot-filler. Just like the vegetable lasagna or terrine is a slot-filler—a sop to vegetarians. Menus are made up of slot-fillers. That’s one reason why I take so long to read them; I’m looking to see what’s there just to fill a need, and what might be there because a chef is excited to put it there.

There’s a lot of copy-catting out there. And actually pork belly is less common that it used to be. Five years ago, every place was doing foie gras, even if it was only B-grade stuff.

The copy-catting I notice: beet and goat cheese (almost always presented the exact same way, except for Mintwood Place, which makes it feel surprising and new), gnocchi (almost always drenched in something too rich), something piggy (a shank, pork belly, etc.), mussels.

Clifton, VA:

Neapolitan pizza

Okay but I prefer the pizza in Rome. In and around Naples I go for seafood and pasta in the freshest of tomato sauces ie just made a few mintes ago at lunch time. Saute Vongole etc. Pizza not really. Pizza in Rome is better as is the gelati.

Todd Kliman


And French food is better in France and Mexican food is better in Mexico.

And I’d rather eat Szechuan in Chengdu.

Two can play these foodier-than-thou games …

Portland, OR:

On top of Jessica’s recommendations, highly recommend Le Pigeon, especially if foie gras profiteroles for dessert is something in which you would be interested.

Also, second (and third and fourth) the Pok Pok recommendation. Maybe the best Thai meal ever (including Thailand and Little Serow) at an incredible value – nothing more than $12 if I remember correctly. An absolute must.

Castagna is good for meals that incorporate local flavors like pine.

Portland is full of unpretentious restaurants that serve great food. It’s also full of unpretentious breweries that must serve great beer – Hair of the Dog, Upright, Lucky Labrador, etc, etc

Todd Kliman

Thanks for chiming in …

I’ll tell you: just seeing those words “Pok Pok,” and my mouth starts to water, given everything I’ve read and seen …


I saw Fiola on your top restaurant week picks Todd. I called several weeks ago and made a reservation for Saturday night, after confirming with the hostess that they would be participating in RW. Then, about a week ago, I got a call from them letting me know that they wouldn’t be offering a restaurant week menu on Friday or Saturday night. What a letdown – and of course by then it was too late to find another good RW res.

I love the food there but I have found their service lacking several times, both the waitstaff but more particularly the hostesses. While at dinner there over the winter, their valet informed me that he was unable to get my car back for me (due to Obama being in the vicinity and the road to the garage being blocked off) and that he had no idea how long it would take to get it back. I understand that the situation was out of their control, but the hostess couldn’t care less that I was stranded there indefinitely. An offer of a free drink at the bar while I waited for the situation to resolve would have done a lot to ease my frustration.

Todd Kliman

Yes, at the very least.

I’m sorry to hear that you were slighted …

Nolo, DC:

Ocean City isn’t a great dining town, but there are some definite highlights. Some of my favorite spots include OC Kabob for fantastic, cheap middle-eastern food in a mediocre mall setting (Gold Coast Mall, 118th); Just Hooked (Fenwick Island) for pricey but amazing fresh seafood; OC Cafe (4th and the Boards) for coffee roasted by Ceremony and house-baked pastries; Lombardi’s (91st, Bayside) for better-than-delivery pizza; and of course Fractured Prune (various locations) for the Best Donuts in the World. Not that I’m biased from 40+ years of enjoying them.

(I’ll be in OC this weekend at my family’s apartment and will likely hit up all of these places)

Todd Kliman

Thanks so much for this, Nolo. I appreciate the tips …

How about giving us updates when you return from your gluttonous weekend? ; )


Julia Child:

I did not get to see Julia in her prime but caught most of her shows that featured her cooking with Jaque Pepin on PBS. I was young and at first was like “why watch this old woman and old french dude cook?” Little did I know these were two of the biggest pioneers of food in the 20th century.

I found myself going back and watching more episodes and starting to gain an appreciation for the work Julia provided for american cooking. Her easy approach made anyone feel like they could cook like a master french chef. I found myself soaking in all the techniques that Jaque would bring to the show and the great bantor he had with Julia on the show.

As my appreciation for Julia grew my appreciation for food and the work that goes into making great meals grew as well. Julia Childs should be mandatory viewing for people who appreciate and love food.

There used to a restaurant in Napa that was named after Julia called Julia’s Kitchen. Unfortunately, it has closed and I never got a chance to dine there.

None of these new people (Rachel, Paula Deen, Sandra Lee, and the host of other Food network stars (forget I mentioned Sandra Lee, she is more mixologist professional drinker)) will ever be on the same level as Julia.

Todd Kliman

Don’t you have a job you need to do, Naeem? : )

It’s funny to see how this cook on TV thing has just exploded, and beyond anything you might have imagined twenty years ago. If you look at those old Julia Child shows — I did, not too long ago — you will be struck at just how not buzzy the whole thing was. It would never fly today. Everything in our “entertainment” is so slick and over-produced. Sports, TV, movies, network TV, even cable TV. And when it’s not over-produced, we think something’s missing.

It’s a constant assault, constant stimulation. Everything is so thought-through and so focus-grouped and so calibrated that there’s no room for the thing that has any life to come through.

The best Julia moments, in my memory, were when she f’ed up. And then just went with it! Those improvisations made the show.

Todd Kliman

Thanks, everyone, for the questions, the tips, the complaints, the musings, all of it …

Take a look at my Restaurant Week guide, and if you need any more direction you can drop me a note at tkliman@washingtonian.com.

I’d love to hear what your experiences are like, and I’ll be looking forward to reading some dispatches from the front next week. And please feel free to fill me in during the week via email …

No Julia Child memory really stood out for me as being book-worthy, so we’ll run the same contest next week. Be thinking, meantime, about a story or a recipe you turn to again and again—a copy of her classic Mastering the Art of French Cooking awaits. And of course we’ll also have another, non-Julia contest. So two books to give away next week — woo!

Be well and eat well, and let’s do it again next Tuesday at 11 …

[missing you, TEK … ]