100 Very Best Restaurants 2014: Rose’s Luxury

No. 11 on this year's list.
An atrium off the open kitchen brings the outside in with dangling lights and potted plants. Photograph by Lauren Joseph.

This snug, no-reservations dining room—the most exciting debut of 2013—marries the energy and derring-do of New York’s Momofuku Noodle Bar with the warmth and rootedness of Charleston’s McCrady’s. Chef Aaron Silverman, who logged stints in both of those kitchens, bears little evidence of tentativeness or straining for a first-timer at the helm, and his joyful staff works with uncommon assurance.

The menu pulls in influences from all over the globe. To dig into his smooth Vietnamese pâté, haunting and rich as a bowl of pho, or to spear a forkful of his flattened gnocchi, stuffed with fennel and mint, is to appreciate what can be accomplished when you bring playfulness together with precision. The few entrées are an homage to the shared plates for two at Komi. Lay the long, luscious slices of smoked brisket on griddled toast, give it a good schmear of horseradish cream, add some pickled cabbage, and there you have it: the best barbecue in DC.

Open: Monday through Saturday for dinner.

Don’t miss: Pork-sausage-and-lychee salad; pickle-brined fried chicken; cacio e pepe; foie gras with French toast and cinnamon ice cream.

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Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.

Anna Spiegel
Food Editor

Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.