The Mason-jar-lined Shaw market where, come nightfall, Dan O’Brien hauls out a butcher-block table for 12 reflects the chef/co-owner’s handmade cooking style. The dinner-party-like meal—where you’ll likely sit among strangers—might include uni pasta with house-made tagliatelle or a fluffy, foie-gras-stuffed “bronut” covered in powdered sugar and Concord-grape jelly.
Clean and restrained, the cooking rivals that of far fancier dining destinations, and O’Brien walks the line between inventive and soulfully delicious. It all adds up to one of our favorite dining experiences in Washington.
Open: Wednesday through Saturday for dinner.
Don’t miss: The menu changes monthly and ranges from $90 to $135 (including tax, tip, and wine). Recent favorites have included pork four ways with Brussels sprouts; potato soup topped with smoked hake; pork belly and clams; and green-curry pot de crème.