There are more imaginative restaurants than this storefront charmer in the Palisades. But few are more consistent or more dependably satisfying. That’s not damning with faint praise—it’s exactly what you want from a classic French-Belgian bistro.
You want to know that the greens will be dressed tartly but lightly, that the bread will be crusty, that the duck confit will come apart easily, that the chocolate mousse and crème brûlée will taste just like they do in Paris. Every so often, chef/owner Claudio Pirollo springs a surprise on you, such as a delicately rendered sea-bass tartare that would be the envy of every trendy bistro downtown. Not that plates like this portend a new direction for the chef or his cafe—no, not even the teensiest embrace of trends. That’s just the way you want it, too.
- Country pâté
- Mussel burger
- Steamed mussels with cream and endives; beef carbonnade; floating island; waffle with blueberry compote; profiteroles. Moderate.