Robert Wiedmaier’s soaring space is as charming as ever, from the clocks evoking European rail stations to the gorgeous display of fresh catches from around the world. The kitchen privileges familiarity over novelty, while the strapping portions of bistro cooking speak to Belgian traditions—as does the hearty rusticity of this sprawling menu of carbonnades, braised meats, and mussels. The moules frites come drenched with a rich Bolognese—a brilliant stroke. The wine list is excellent, but the emphasis is on beers, and the list of Belgian tripels, sours, and the like is encyclopedic.
Don’t miss: Shellfish platter; raw littleneck clams; beef carbonnade; croque madame; mussels with red curry; cassoulet; French fries; chocolate gâteau; Belgian waffle.