It’s not just the sumptuous elegance of the space that envelops you in a fantasy. It’s all the many appurtenances that reinforce the air of tasteful luxury—the upholstered stools for purses, the thick linen napkins, the silver domes to keep plates hot, the elaborate amuse-bouche to start, the petits fours to finish. The cooking, under the direction of Ralf Schlegel, avoids the pothole that fine dining at the highest levels is surprisingly prone to: the tendency to deliver technically perfect but soulless food. Schlegel brings imagination as well as rigor, most notably in a preparation of salmon poached tableside in liquefied beeswax (the filet emerges as succulent as a piece of chu-toro), and his more classical treatments (a seared breast of duck or loin of venison) sing with the quality of his saucing. The sommelier, Jennifer Knowles, is your ally—capable, with one daring wine pairing, of turning a very good dish into something magical.
Don’t miss: Foie gras terrine; veal duo; scallops with chorizo and coffee oil; “Everything Chocolate” dessert; speculoos-and-salted-caramel custard.