Even after 30 years, Obelisk still tastes relevant. The reason is simple: High-quality ingredients simply prepared never go out of style. A round of antipasti kicks off the leisurely five-course meal with uncomplicated pleasures such as creamy burrata doused in good Ligurian olive oil or grilled radicchio sweetened by aged balsamic. Handwritten menus are a sign of the ever-changing offerings, but house-made ravioli and al dente strands of pasta are standouts no matter the season. Like any respectable Italian meal, this one wouldn’t be complete without wine, whether in half-bottle or full pairings—or at the very least, an amaro cocktail. Very expensive.
Also great: Fried squash blossoms; spaghetti with shrimp and razor clams; nettle ravioli; veal chop for two; peach Melba.