Chef Yuh Shimomura operates the open kitchen of this snug Old Town dining room as a one-man show. His five-course tasting menu—a steal at $55—changes daily with grilled, fried, or steamed dishes that might include a silky egg custard topped with Oregon truffles or a grilled lamb chop in a dreamy foie gras–miso sauce. You can always count on a few things, though: beautiful sashimi (the $13 upgrade is worth it) and a bubbling hot pot or noodle soup for the table. For dessert, housemade ice creams come in flavors like cashew-mascarpone or miso-chocolate. Moderate.