100 Very Best 2023The five-course prix fixe menu at this intimate Italian restaurant in an unassuming rowhouse (there’s not even a sign outside) is a happy mix of the familiar and lesser-seen. On a recent visit, appetizers including crisp artichokes, scallop crudo, and flaky half-moon pastries filled with greens appeared in a flurry. What followed was even more impressive: airy gnocchi over lamb ragu, rockfish with herby green sauce and chicory-like puntarelle, braised short ribs with polenta, and a lovely apple spice cake. The meal is generous and leisurely—this is not a place to dash into before a show. Expensive.
