100 Very Best Restaurants 2013: 8407 Kitchen Bar

Photograph by Erik Uecke.
Photograph by Erik Uecke.

The line of green Prius taxis out front isn’t inviting. Neither
is the construction site across the street. Given such surroundings, you’d
hardly expect this smart suburban spin on a big-city restaurant, with a
dining room that summons a trendy bistro with its dangling lights and
exposed brick, only quieter and more comfortable; an engaging staff; a
commitment to local sourcing; and a pastry chef, Rita Garruba, who puts
her virtuosity in the service of deliciousness. There are occasional
moments of overreaching on the eclectic American menu, but the best dishes
have a satisfying directness, such as the lamb Bolognese, which could make
an Italian chef bitter with envy.

Don’t miss: Rappahannock
River oysters; smoked-bluefish rillettes; Cuban-style pork
sandwich; cheeseburger with bacon; duck breast with polenta; pan-roasted
branzino; chocolate torte with crème fraîche; blackberry shortcake.

Open: Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner,
Saturday for dinner, Sunday for brunch and dinner.

100 Very Best Restaurants 2013

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