The line of green Prius taxis out front isn’t inviting. Neither
is the construction site across the street. Given such surroundings, you’d
hardly expect this smart suburban spin on a big-city restaurant, with a
dining room that summons a trendy bistro with its dangling lights and
exposed brick, only quieter and more comfortable; an engaging staff; a
commitment to local sourcing; and a pastry chef, Rita Garruba, who puts
her virtuosity in the service of deliciousness. There are occasional
moments of overreaching on the eclectic American menu, but the best dishes
have a satisfying directness, such as the lamb Bolognese, which could make
an Italian chef bitter with envy.
Don’t miss: Rappahannock
River oysters; smoked-bluefish rillettes; Cuban-style pork
sandwich; cheeseburger with bacon; duck breast with polenta; pan-roasted
branzino; chocolate torte with crème fraîche; blackberry shortcake.
Open: Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner,
Saturday for dinner, Sunday for brunch and dinner.