100 Very Best Restaurants 2014: 2941

Duo of Duck Breast. Photograph by Scott Suchman.
Duo of Duck Breast. Photograph by Scott Suchman.

The adage “change isn’t easy” proves especially true for a restaurant. Two years ago, when 2941 morphed, in a matter of weeks, from a fine-dining destination to a dressed-down bistro, an identity crisis ensued. Lackluster dishes such as Wagyu sliders felt reluctantly casual, while the lofty space and pricing called for a more celebratory meal. In the past year, though, an equilibrium has been reached between relaxed and refined. Small bites make full-size impressions. We fought over the last “Daffy” slider—a miniature duck/foie gras burger—as well as lilliputian croque madames crowned with quail eggs. Chef Bertrand Chemel, a Daniel Boulud alum, successfully plays to his French roots—potato-crusted rockfish in a citrusy beurre blanc is pure Francophile comfort. Pastry chef Caitlin Dysart follows suit; her pillowy gâteau de crêpes is worth a trip in itself.

Open: Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner.

Don’t Miss: Grilled octopus with olives and feta; crispy lobster with mushroom sabayon; orecchiette with lamb Bolognese; seared duck with confit leg; nut-crusted venison with red-wine-braised cabbage; salted-caramel brownie.

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