If it were a car, it would be a luxury sedan with fine-tuned engineering and plush leather seats. This is a smooth, almost magisterially controlled operation, the kind you can trust to make that milestone birthday worthwhile. Some restaurants aim for the big statement; Eve—which recently consolidated its tasting room and bistro and is all the better for it—aims for a lot of little ones.
Start with an unfailingly gracious greeting, then move on to Todd Thrasher’s superlative cocktails, and you’re certain to be put in a better mood. Cathal Armstrong’s Continental cooking finds the seam between heartiness and elegance, nowhere as convincingly as with his preparations of game. Add in a they-think-of-everything staff and a space that combines Shaker simplicity with a Northern California cool and you have, well, one big statement.
Open: Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner.
Don’t miss: Charcuterie board; beef tartare; gravlax with fingerling-potato crisps; Basque stew; veal sweetbreads with cornbread; pappardelle with pork rib; lima-bean agnolotti with corn; seared duck breast.