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If there’s an appetizer you’d be smart to ignore on most Chinese menus, it’s wonton soup, but not at this minimalist Wolfgang Puck satellite. Instead of bland liquid, you’re presented with a crock of spiced pork-beef-and-chicken broth that’s been simmering for 20 hours. The server ladles it from a tableside cart into a bowl holding tender dumplings, pickled peppers, and chewy egg noodles. That’s just one of chef Scott Drewno’s luxe—and smart—upgrades to favorites from the Chinese-American canon. Crab Rangoon is reimagined with crabcakes; the duck for two, served with bao buns and a host of condiments, is one of our favorite shares in town; and all dumplings are terrific. The Saturday dim sum brunch—when you can sample five dishes for $40—stays packed for good reason. Very expensive.
Also great: Short rib with rice-noodle cake; lobster-and-shrimp dumplings; dim sum platter; pork porterhouse; drunken noodles; corn soufflé.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.
Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind D.C.’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.
Kristen Hinman has been editing Washingtonian’s features since 2014. She joined the magazine after editing politics & policy coverage for Bloomberg Businessweek and working as a staff writer for Voice Media Group/Riverfront Times.
