If there’s an appetizer you’d be smart to ignore on most Chinese menus, it’s wonton soup, but not at this minimalist Wolfgang Puck satellite. Instead of bland liquid, you’re presented with a crock of spiced pork-beef-and-chicken broth that’s been simmering for 20 hours. The server ladles it from a tableside cart into a bowl holding tender dumplings, pickled peppers, and chewy egg noodles. That’s just one of chef Scott Drewno’s luxe—and smart—upgrades to favorites from the Chinese-American canon. Crab Rangoon is reimagined with crabcakes; the duck for two, served with bao buns and a host of condiments, is one of our favorite shares in town; and all dumplings are terrific. The Saturday dim sum brunch—when you can sample five dishes for $40—stays packed for good reason. Very expensive.
Also great: Short rib with rice-noodle cake; lobster-and-shrimp dumplings; dim sum platter; pork porterhouse; drunken noodles; corn soufflé.