It’s possible to take a tour through Virginia wine country without leaving Ashby’s 19th-century rooms—or better yet, the garden veranda. Sommelier Stuart Brennen seeks out up-and-coming wineries such as North Gate Vineyard in neighboring Purcellville as well as established vintners. New chef Tom Whitaker continues a local-when-possible cooking tradition at the Fauquier County restaurant, though with a more classical bent than his predecessors: plump shrimp and grits with smoky bacon, a woodsy rabbit pot pie. Service is leisurely at best—order an enticing cheese-and-charcuterie board and be prepared to linger. Expensive.
Also great: Butternut-squash-and-apple soup; lightly smoked scallop ceviche; braised pork shoulder with truffles and spaetzle.